On the palate, kirsch and mulberry lead, followed quickly by fried oyster-mushrooms, tan-leather, fennel seed, cured-meat and pan-drippings.  Raspberry pokes back in, only to be subsumed by hazelnut-encrusted lamb, bramble and wet stone. On the one hand full-bodied with a core structure and tannin that can easily last a decade, yet with vibrant acidity and incredible nimbleness and balance.